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Fancy Cut Diamonds - Variety is the SPICE of Life!

Are you in the the mood for something Fancy?

A lot of people do not know that diamonds can come in a variety of shapes, not just round. This means there may just be a unique shape out there waiting for you to discover, that perfectly complements your style and personality.

The definition of a fancy cut diamond is any diamond shape other than a round brilliant. The most popular fancy cut diamonds sold today are Asscher cut, Cushion cut, Emerald cut, Heart shaped, Marquise shaped, Oval shaped, Pear shaped, Princess cut, and Radiant cut, but there are many, many more!

Fancy cut diamonds provide a way for people to express their individuality and we believe individuality should be celebrated. From the graceful, feminine curve of the Pear shape to the clean crisp lines of an Emerald cut, fancy shapes provide a diverse departure from the traditional Round Brilliant. They particularly appeal to individuals who desire to be different from their peers, want something unique, customised and one of a kind.

At Kimjoux we offer ALL the fancy cut shapes (even the more obscure and hard to find!) and we actively encourage our clients to take their time to discover each one so their jewellery piece perfectly reflects their distinctive aesthetic style and taste.

Perhaps another reason for purchasing a fancy cut diamond is they tend to be more affordable than round diamonds and who doesn’t like a good deal! There are a couple of reasons for this, but it is mainly because less of the diamond rough is likely to be wasted if it is cut into a fancy shape, allowing for a larger carat weight in the finished stone. Sounds pretty good to us!

Characteristics of Fancy Cuts

For this next section I am going to get a bit more technical but stay with me, it will be worth it!

To those new to the world of gemstones, I would firstly like to explain what a ‘facet’ is. A facet is a flat surface on a geometric shape such as a diamond or gemstone that can be polished. These facets then refract the light within the diamond/gemstone and give off the spectrum of beautiful colours.

Each fancy cut diamond has its own characteristics and different cuts do different things, specifically the way they reflect and refract light. So, we highly recommend you take some time to familiarize yourself with each one.

Most fancy cut diamonds on the market today are cut using the brilliant cut facet arrangement allowing for the same brilliance, fire, and scintillation of a round brilliant cut diamond but some are cut using step cuts or mixed cuts.

Still with me….

Modified brilliant cuts feature triangular and kite shaped facets that begin at the diamond’s centre and go out to the girdle e.g. the round or oval diamond in the above image. A step cut has long, narrow, four sided facets arranged in rows parallel to the girdle e.g. Emerald cut. Mixed cuts are a mix of both e.g. radiant or princess cut.

To simplify this a bit further fancy cut diamonds can be split into 3 main groups:

  1. Modified Brilliants – Oval, Trilliants, Marquise, Pear, Hexagonal and Heart

  2. Step Cuts – Emerald Cuts, Asscher and Kites

  3. Mixed Cuts (These fancy shapes are hybrids of a modified brilliant and a step cut)– Princess Cut, Radiant, Pentagonal

Styling Tips

Although we feel it is important to be well informed when purchasing any diamond, it is crucial that you chose a shape that you love, suits your personality and style and on the note of style here are a few styling tips to help you find the right diamond cut for your hand.

Similar to selecting clothes that look best for your body type, selecting the right diamond cut for your hand is key, but most importantly, your heart

  1. Short Hands and Fingers

If you have square-shaped palms with short fingers, go for a smaller sized diamond. A shorter, tiny hand looks best with a smaller-sized gem because then everything appears to be delightfully proportioned.

2. Long Hands and Fingers

If you have rectangular palms and long fingers, the options are endless as your long fingers can accommodate many different diamond shapes. Round, Emerald Cut and Princess Cut diamonds tend to be the most popular choices. Long fingers also allow you to explore options that are off the beaten track, like an asymmetrical-set oval cut diamond.

3. Wide Palms and Fingers

If you have broad palms and wide fingers you will be able to accommodate a heftier diamond. If you fit this hand type, it’s best to find a cut that allows for minimal skin to show on both sides of the stone as this will slenderize the finger. Don’t go for dainty shapes that will appear too frail on your strong hand.

Ladies with wider fingers have more room to play with, so can have some fun. You can pull off a larger carat size than the average engagement ring, perhaps a cluster, or something bespoke and that little bit bolder.

4. Thin Hands and Fingers

Trying to determine what diamond shape flatters a lady with oval palms and narrow fingers is like trying to see what clothes would look good on Kendell Jenner, pretty much everything works! With this in mind, focus your choice of shape based more on your sense of style and fashion preferences. Are you classic? Go for a round or emerald cut? If you are more edgy? Try something more unusual like a Toi et Moi ring or Hexagonal shape.

Yellow and White Diamond Toi x Moi Ring
Bespoke - Yellow and White Diamond Toi x Moi Ring

For those of you who have never come across a Toi et Moi ring, the names means “you and me” in French and refers to a ring with two gems that sit side by side or close to each other, symbolising two souls becoming one.

The significance of two stones was considered particularly romantic because not only did they represent the union between two people, the stones themselves carried symbolism too. Especially popular is the pairing of a diamond with a ruby, the diamond representing love and prosperity, the ruby passion and devotion.

While a classic Toi et Moi ring features two stones of a similar size and cut, in recent years more and more jewellery designers have been playing with the concept, juxtaposing different motifs and materials, as well as gems.

To discover our unique and wonderful fancy shaped jewels please follow the link to our website or if you have any questions, bespoke enquiries please contact us at

We can’t wait to hear from you!

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